Knowing exactly how to measure for an english girth is one of those basic horsemanship skills that saves you a ton of returns at the tack shop and, more importantly, keeps your horse from getting grumpy during tack-up. We've all been there—trying to tug a girth that's just two inches too short while your horse holds their breath, or realizing mid-ride that your buckles are sitting way too high and interfering with your leg. Getting the measurement right the first time isn't rocket science, but there are a few nuances that can make a huge difference in your horse's comfort and your saddle's stability.
Before you grab your tape measure, it's worth thinking about why we're being so precise. A girth that's too short can put pressure in the wrong places, potentially pinching the sensitive skin behind the elbows. One that's too long might mean you run out of holes to tighten, leaving the saddle sliding around. It's all about finding that "Goldilocks" zone where the buckles sit securely on the billets without interfering with the horse's movement.
What you'll need to get started
You don't need a fancy kit to do this. Honestly, a simple soft fabric measuring tape (the kind used for sewing) is your best friend here. If you don't have one, a piece of bailing twine or a long lead rope will work in a pinch—you'll just need to mark the length and then measure that against a standard ruler or metal tape measure later.
It's also a good idea to have a friend standing by. While you can definitely do this alone, having someone to hold the "zero" end of the tape on the far side of the horse makes the process much more accurate. And of course, you need the saddle you actually plan to use. Since billet lengths vary wildly between brands and styles, you can't really measure for a girth without the saddle in place.
The step-by-step measurement process
First things first: tack up your horse just like you're getting ready for a lesson. Put the pad on and set the saddle in the correct position on the horse's back. Don't worry about the girth yet—that's what we're figuring out.
Once the saddle is sitting where it should be, go to one side and find the billet straps (the leather straps hanging down from the saddle). Look for the middle hole on the center billet. If your saddle only has two billets, just pick the middle hole of the one you use most. Hold the end of your measuring tape right at that middle hole.
Now, run the tape down under the horse's belly, about a hand's width behind the front legs. This is the "girth groove," the narrowest part of the horse's barrel where the girth naturally wants to sit. Bring the tape up to the other side and find the corresponding middle hole on the billets there.
The number you see where the tape hits that middle hole is your girth size. In the US and UK, this is usually measured in inches (like 48, 50, or 52). In Europe, you might see it in centimeters. If you end up with an odd number, like 49 inches, it's usually best to round up to the nearest even size, especially if you're using a girth with elastic on the ends.
Dressage vs. jumping girths: know the difference
This is where a lot of riders get tripped up. The method I just described works for standard English saddles (like close contact, all-purpose, or jumping saddles) where the billets end underneath the saddle flap. These require a "long" girth.
However, if you're riding in a dressage saddle or a monoflap jump saddle, the billets are much longer and hang down past the bottom of the flap. For these, you need a "short" girth. If you try to use the "middle hole to middle hole" method with a dressage saddle, you'll end up with a tiny number, probably somewhere between 20 and 30 inches.
When measuring for a short dressage girth, you want the tops of the girth buckles to clear the horse's elbow by several inches so they don't rub. Ideally, the buckles should sit just below the bottom edge of the saddle pad. It's a bit of a balancing act; you want it long enough to be easy to reach from the saddle but short enough that it doesn't overlap with the saddle flap itself.
Using an old girth as a reference
If you already have a girth that fits perfectly and you just want to buy a new one in a different style, you can skip the horse-measuring part. But be careful: you can't just look at the number stamped on the leather. Over time, leather and elastic can stretch.
To get an accurate reading from an existing girth, lay it out flat on the ground. Measure from the inner end of one buckle to the inner end of the other buckle. Don't include the entire metal buckle in the measurement, and definitely don't measure the "tails" of the leather if it's a string girth. Measuring buckle-to-buckle gives you the true length that the girth provides when it's under tension.
Factor in the materials
It's worth noting that the material of the girth can change how it feels on the horse. A brand-new leather girth with no elastic is going to feel a lot "shorter" than a synthetic girth with double-ended elastic.
If you're moving from a non-elastic girth to one with elastic, you might find you need to go down a size. Elastic has a surprising amount of give, and if you buy your "normal" size, you might find yourself running out of holes on the billets once the horse starts moving and the material settles. On the flip side, if you're buying a thick, sheepskin-lined girth, the extra bulk of the fleece might mean you need to go up two inches to ensure you can actually reach the billets to start tightening it.
Checking the fit in person
Once you've used these tips on how to measure for an english girth and you've actually bought the piece of tack, you need to verify the fit on the horse.
- The Two-Finger Rule: Once the girth is tightened to a "riding" tension, you should be able to slide two fingers comfortably between the girth and the horse's ribs. If you can't get any fingers in there, it's too tight. If you can fit your whole hand, it's too loose.
- Elbow Clearance: Pick up your horse's front leg and pull it forward (gently!). This mimics the stretch they take when galloping or jumping. Does the girth or the buckles interfere with the back of the elbow? There should be plenty of space for the leg to move freely without hitting the edge of the girth.
- Symmetry: Check that you are on roughly the same hole on both sides of the saddle. If you're on hole #2 on the left and hole #8 on the right, your saddle is going to be pulled off-center, which isn't good for the horse's back or your balance.
Seasonal changes and "grass bellies"
Don't be surprised if the girth that fit perfectly in October feels like it shrunk three inches by May. Horses change shape constantly. A winter coat adds bulk, and the "spring grass belly" is a very real phenomenon. Many riders keep two girths on hand—one for when the horse is in peak fitness and one for those times of year when they're carrying a bit of extra weight.
If you find yourself right on the edge of a size, it's usually better to have a girth that's a tiny bit too long than one that's too short. A short girth is a nightmare to get started, and the struggle of trying to heave it up can make a horse "cinchy" or resentful of being tacked up.
In the end, taking five minutes to pull out a tape measure is much better than guessing. A well-fitting girth is the foundation of a stable saddle, and a stable saddle is the foundation of a happy, focused horse. So, grab a friend, get that measurement, and enjoy the peace of mind knowing your gear is exactly the right size.